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lavori  originali a cura del Circolo BiffulusTHOROGOOD             WWW.THOROGOODPUBLISHING.CO.UK 

                                                       Brian Mooney 2012

                                                     A LONG WAY FOR A PIZZA

      Traduzione pagine 169-172 a cura di Maurizio De Berti, Circolo Biffulus - Calendasco (PC)

 

Lì, seguendo la linea di confine tra le due province di Milano  e di Lodi dovetti svoltare decisamente verso il sud, cioè verso Roma, e questa cambiamento di direzione mi rinnovò  il senso dell’essere pellegrino . Con la graziosa cittadina di Orio Litta alla mia sinistra ed il profilo delle colline all’orizzonte continuai il cammino  sulle “ arginelle” del Lambro, terrapieni di modeste dimensioni , per così dire  fatti a mano , che serpeggiano dentro e fuori dai campi di riso e di meliga, per poi correre fianco a fianco del boschetto fino all’ingresso del Lambro nel Po.

Qui avevo l’appuntamento con Danilo Parisi, ex giocatore di rugby, e contatto di vitale importanza per le miriadi di pellegrini che sono passati su questa via.  Danilo traghetta i moderni pellegrini attraverso il Po, portandoli sulla stessa via d’acqua con la quale i pellegrini diretti a Roma si avvicinavano alla citta di Piacenza.

L’appuntamento viene preso – cosi come per l’attraversamento dell’estuario inglese dell’est e dei fiumi in genere- con telefono  cellulare e  siccome avevo raggiunto il piccolo pontile circa mezzora prima dell’orario concordato con Danilo per venirmi a prendere  ebbi il tempo di visitare il piccolo villaggio agricolo di Corte Sant’Andrea, prima di ritornare sulla riva di sabbia bianca, dove una colonna fatta con mattoni indica il punto dal quale i pellegrini si imbarcavano sulla piccola imbarcazione che un tempo li trasportava a valle ed attraverso il fiume. Qui è presente anche un altarino con la statua della Vergine,  la “ Madonna dei Pescatori” e la scritta “ proteggici “ a ricordo del fatto che perfino le tranquille acque del Po  possono diventare tempestose e mortalmente pericolose.

In un paese dove gli scenari danteschi sono tuttora ben conservati nella memoria dei suoi abitanti, Danilo è stato ovviamente paragonato al Caronte che trasporta il suo carico di anime attraverso lo Stige, ma meglio sarebbe chiamare Danilo  “il San Cristoforo del 21° secolo”.

Mi ero tolto scarpe e calze e stavo facendo prendere aria ai piedi stanchi sul caldo piedistallo della colonna ottagonale quando  in anticipo sul previsto e tipico del personaggio, Danilo arrivò rivendicando orgogliosamente e con passione il proprio ruolo di moderno traghettatore della Via Francigena.

Danilo guida il motoscafo bianco Sigerico  ( l’italiano di Sigeric ) e traghetta pellegrini da    quando

L’ Unione Europea ha iniziato ad investire denaro nel progetto di far rivivere la Via Francigena come  “ itinerario culturale “.

Dal 1998 Danilo è  Custode del passaggio del Po, Maestro di Strada, Custode del Registro dei passaggi e Guida di questo tratto di Via Francigena.

Robusto come si confà ad un antico vogatore di prima fila, si presentò in maglietta blu pantaloncini e infradito , assieme al suo cane Nilo. Mi rimisi in tutta fretta le scarpe e scesi per la scaletta d’accesso al pontile per salire a bordo. Il viaggio in barca fu davvero unico. Il fuoribordo Evinrude da 200 CV  ci lanciò sulla distesa acquatica come un missile. Come unico passeggero mi sistemai a prua, lasciandomi piacevolmente raggiungere dall’aria fresca e dagli spruzzi d’acqua sollevati dal vento. Danilo guidava la sua barca con la perizia e la concentrazione di un pilota di formula uno; ma con la sua ispida barba grigia e luccicante nel sole,  la faccia bruciata dalle intemperie  e la cornice di capelli svolazzanti attorno alla sua testa pelata, mi sembrava più simile a un frate burlone che a un guidatore di taxi.

La sponda del fiume  marcata dalla presenza di file di alberi d’alto fusto ed orlata da lunghi tratti di spiaggia di sabbia bianca , arida e deserta nella calda estate, veniva incontro a gran velocità a noi che scendevamo il fiume per cinque chilometri verso Calendasco, passando sull’ ampia ansa di fiume frutto dei ripetuti dragaggi.

  Ben sistemato in quella piccola barca raffreddata ad aria, avrei voluto che il viaggio potesse continuare così fino a Roma; desiderio che probabilmente hanno avuto tutti quelli che si sono goduti un viaggio con Danilo.

 Ormeggiammo sull’altra sponda e ci precipitammo giù dal terrapieno  rialzato dirigendoci  verso la sua casa lungo il fiume, una vecchia casa di campagna in mattone, il cui cortile ombreggiato, in giornate di gran caldo  come quella, diventa la  sala di ricevimento per i pellegrini.

 Danilo uscì fuori  di casa  tenendo in mano un grosso libro rilegato in pelle, il  suo “ Liber  peregrinorum “, nel quale  registra ogni passeggero  giunto a piedi , cui   abbia  fatto attraversare il Po: un meraviglioso documento che attesta la passione  di un solo uomo per la passione degli altri.

 Eppure ad un primo sguardo, quello che è sorprendente  è  quanto  pochi siano i pellegrini passati per questa via da quando è stato ripristinato il traghetto,  molto meno dei 3000  che hanno scalato l’Everest.  Agli inizi numeri assai bassi, che non hanno superato  quota 100 fino al 2008, numeri che ancora oggi si attestano a meno di 300 per anno,   niente di paragonabile alle migliaia di numeri del  cammino verso Santiago. Per di più, la maggior parte di coloro che passano il Po con la lancia di Danilo sono partiti da Losanna o dal Colle del Gran San Bernardo. Molto pochi sono quelli che hanno cominciato il viaggio da Canterbury, e solo poco più di una manciata quelli partiti da Olanda e Germania.  Nel  librone non è registrato nessuno, tranne me, che sia partito da Londra.

 Dopo che ebbi scritto i miei dati nel registro, Danilo impugnò un grosso  pezzo di legno, dalla forma e dalle dimensioni di un macinapepe e con il dovuto cerimoniale, impresse   sulle mie credenziali il timbro più decorativo di tutto il viaggio.

 Danilo è un severo critico delle mani che lo alimentano: il suo traghetto è  sovvenzionato, ma si basa su contributi per andare avanti.

 I dieci Euro di tariffa per il traghetto di solito pagati da un singolo passeggero non sono sufficienti a coprire le spese di trasporto.

 Danilo è convinto che un giorno la Via Francigena potrebbe rivaleggiare con il “ Camino Frances “ per Santiago, ma è anche dolorosamente consapevole che le infrastrutture lungo la Francigena non sono affatto pronte.

“La triste realtà è che una parte eccessiva dei finanziamenti dell’Unione Europea è finita nella cartellonistica stradale atta a illustrare e mettere in mostra la Via Francigena, ma non per creare ostelli né per segnalare meglio il percorso, cioè per cose che realmente sono di aiuto al pellegrino” mi disse.

“ Nell’anno 2008 sono stati spesi circa due milioni di euro della Comunità Europea in stravagante cartellonistica stradale riguardante la Via Francigena, di scarsissimo aiuto a chi a piedi sta cercando di trovar la strada giusta.                                          

“ Ogni anno sul  Camino Francès in Spagna si aprono nuovi posti di accoglienza a prezzi abbordabili, mentre qui in Italia semplicemente non abbiamo fatto abbastanza  e troppo spesso al pellegrino viene offerta una stanza, priva di doccia calda, in una casa parrocchiale, e gli viene consegnata  una chiave ed indicata per la cena una pizzeria, la più vicina, che si trova a due chilometri di distanza .Non è questa la mia idea di come si dovrebbe provvedere all’accoglienza del pellegrino.”

Ero d’accordo con Danilo sui segnavia, ma me ne stetti zitto sulla questione accoglienza. Non volevo fargli  sapere che la sera prima avevo fatto il bagno in una vasca idromassaggio Jacuzzi e non sotto l’acqua fredda di una doccia parrocchiale.

Fedele alla propria reputazione di essere gentile con i pellegrini, poco dopo aver lasciato il cortile ospitale Danilo mi vide sulla strada e si fermò. Stava ritornando con il carburante per la sua barca; aveva  fatto  per me un giro di perlustrazione   ed aveva concluso che avrei potuto passare a guado il Trebbia,  altro affluente del Po. Questa scorciatoia mi avrebbe fatto risparmiare almeno 6 Km in quell’afoso pomeriggio e portato  il kilometraggio giornaliero da  42 a 36 Km. Effettivamente a Puglia, il letto del fiume era quasi del tutto asciutto, e così, dopo essere scivolato giù dalla sua ripida sponda di sabbia , attraversai a piedi il fiume Trebbia raggiungendo così la citta di Piacenza : in una giornata che era stata coronata dall’attraversamento  del Po con un traghetto , questo mi sembrava il modo migliore di arrivare in città.




Pubblicato da maurizio il febbraio 06 2015 16:04:46
5 Commenti ~ 735 Letture Stampa
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