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Da Canterbury in bicicletta fino a Roma L'eremo sul Po nell'itinerario del vescovo Sigerico Una eccezionale esperienza

Il guado sul Po del Cammino di Sigerico nella via Francigena, tuttora attivo


Mi chiamo Ugo Di Felice e sono un insegnante di Cremona. Con l'amico Stefano Nozzoli di Sezzadio (AL) dal 10 luglio al 30 luglio 2007, in bicicletta, abbiamo percorso 1976,7 Km. per raggiungere Roma da Canterbury attraverso le 79 submansiones annotate dall'Arcivescovo Sigerico nel suo manoscritto del 990-994 e conservato al British Museum di Londra.

In una mia precedente lettera privata diretta al responsabile dell'Associazione Europea delle Vie Francigene di Fidenza, paragonavo il percorso fatto in bicicletta a quello del cammino di Santiago da me portato a termine a piedi nel 2006 da Saint Jean Pied de Port (Francia) a Finisterre (Spagna) in 29 giorni. Sostanzialmente mettevo in evidenza le carenze organizzative e logistiche incontrate confrontandole con l'efficenza e l'organizzazione del cammino spagnolo: poche o nulle segnalazioni dei punti di sosta, assenza in molti posti del timbro per la credenziale (il documento ufficiale che attesta lo status di pellegrino), in molti posti nessuna accoglienza o convenzione per i pellegrini.


In questa mia lettera pubblica vorrei invece segnalare a quanti avessero intenzione di mettersi in cammino la solidarietà e gli aiuti da noi incontrati sull'itinerario di Sigerico e sulla Via Francigena. Uno di questi vicinissimo alla mia città Cremona. Annoto in successione rapida.

Il sindaco di Sérarncourt-le-Grand ha allestito in una struttura del comune una casa ostello a disposizione gratuita dei pellegrini con letti, doccia, bagno e cucina attrezzata e rifornita. La Signora Mme Claudine Favier nel villaggio di Dampierre pochi chilometri prima della sosta di Donnemant ci ha alloggiato e sontuosamente sfamato senza nulla chiedere. Il Sindaco di Blessonville, Fabrice Noirot, cultore della storia e profondo conoscitore della via di Sigerico ci ha gentilmente alloggiato nella sua casa di campagna e sua moglie ha cucinato per noi specialità francesi.

A Seveux l'amico Bernhard ci ha offerto ospitalità e ristoro nella sua bella casa. In Svizzera, prima di affrontare la salita del passo del Gran San Bernardo a 2.473 metri di altitudine, il parroco di Bourg St. Pierre ci ha ospitato nella foresteria e ci ha offerto per rifocillarci formaggio locale di sua produzione.

In Italia ci hanno ospitato gratuitamente per la notte le case canoniche o parrocchie o suore di: Ivrea, Fiorenzuola, Berceto, Pietrasanta, Pieve di Coiano, Siena, Abbadia San Salvatore, Vetralla, La Storta. L'azienda agricola biologica ed agriturismo "Lo Spicchio" di Campiglia d'Orcia (www.lospicchio.com/ ), dopo una pesantissima salita, ci ha offerto gratuitamente bevande ed una ricca selezione dei suoi deliziosi prodotti.

Il Sig. Mario Ciacci di Torrenieri ci ha fatto visitare la sua azienda ( www.abbadiardengapoggio.it ) e ci ha fatto omaggio del suo libro del 2004 "La cantina museo di Montalcino" in cui è riportato il manoscritto di Sigerico e descritta la sua 13° sosta presso "Torre nera".


Una menzione particolare per un posto storico ed affascinante a pochi chilometri da Cremona e pochissimi da Piacenza: il Transitum Padi. Provenendo da Pavia superato Belgioioso e Santa Cristina (40° sosta di Sigerico) proseguiamo sulla nazionale n. 234 che ci condurrebbe a Cremona via Codogno e Pizzighettone. Siamo in provincia di Lodi: appena dopo il ponte sul fiume Lambro un cartello ci indica una strada sterrata che conduce in circa 6 Km a Corte S. Andrea (39° sosta dell'Arcivescovo) e al guado sul Po.

Il punto d'imbarco, lo storico Transitum Padi dei pellegrini diretti a Roma dal nord, è segnalato da una colonna francigena di recente costruzione. Il tragitto fluviale, dall'imbarco di Corte S. Andrea alla località Soprarivo di Calendasco sulla sponda piacentina, è garantito ai pellegrini (a piedi e, come noi, in bicicletta) e a quanti fossero interessati all'esperienza, dal traghettatore Sig. Danilo Parisi previo contatto telefonico (telefono 0523 771607). Telefoniamo ed in pochi minuti (anche se è meglio farlo 24 ore prima) ecco il traghettatore (in possesso del titolo professionale specifico per il trasporto di persone) con la sua barca. Carichiamo le biciclette e ci godiamo il panorama estivo, il silenzio del fiume ed il vento durante l'attraversamento del Po.

Appena sbarcati, accolti dalla mia ragazza e da un amico, superato l'argine in una bellissima radura di alberi ed arbusti, vediamo una vecchia casa rurale ristruttura in modo impeccabile e circondata da alberi piantati con cura. Si tratta della Caupona di Sigerico, struttura in grado di fornire accoglienza e ristoro ai pellegrini.


Il casale è veramente bello ed accogliente. Tutto è organizzato perfettamente, le stanze sono piene di oggetti d'arte e non manca un pianoforte magistralmente suonato dal mio amico Stefano che è musicista di professione. Ad una cifra veramente modesta riceviamo un pasto luculliano con penne all'amatriciana, una suntuosa varietà di salumi piacentini, ottimo dolce casalingo, bevande a volontà e digestivo. Per iniziativa del Sig. Parisi ed alcuni amici sono sorti alla Caupona un circolo culturale (Biffulus) ed una associazione (Homo Viator) che si occupano, oltre al traghettamento e all'ospitalità per i pellegrini ed i turisti, anche di conferenze, attività culturali, itinerari naturalistici e storico archeologici (contatti all'indirizzo della Caupona di Sigerico: Sig. Danilo Parisi, 29010 Soprarivo di Calendasco - PC. Telefono 0523 771607 Posta elettronica: homoviator@alice.it ). In un oasi di verde e di pace abbiamo avuto la possibilità di rinfrancarci dalla fatica e dal caldo sulle tracce di un cammino carico di storia, arte e cultura. Grazie a tutti.



Pubblicato da maurizio il febbraio 27 2010 12:51:50
7 Commenti ~ 1562 Letture Stampa
Commenti
maurizio il febbraio 27 2010 12:53:03
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maurizio il febbraio 27 2010 12:58:54
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